A Walk Through the Battle of Byland
There’s something truly grounding about walking through a landscape where the past has left its mark. That sense of connection – of treading the same paths that soldiers and monarchs once marched – brings history alive in a way that books and museums sometimes can’t.
Earlier this week, we took ourselves off on a 10km circular walk from the Sutton Bank National Park Centre, tracing one of the possible routes taken by the Scottish forces during the Battle of Byland in 1322. With sunshine, blue skies, and the woods full of spring colour, it was the perfect day to explore this dramatic corner of the North York Moors.
We started at the Sutton Bank National Park Centre, which is a great place to begin any walk in the area. There’s a café, loos, maps and information – and it sets you up nicely before heading out onto the escarpment. Just a few minutes into the walk, you’re met with what author James Herriot once called “the finest view in England”. It’s a sweeping vista across the Vale of Mowbray and Vale of York, and it’s not hard to imagine why this strategic high ground was so important during medieval times.
From the viewpoint, we began our descent into Garbutt Wood, which was absolutely brimming with bluebells. The scent and colour were amazing – a real spring show. The path winds gently down through the trees, eventually bringing you out by the mysterious and tranquil Gormire Lake – Yorkshire’s fourth largest natural lake. There are all sorts of legends tied to this place, from sunken villages to bottomless depths, though in reality it’s a peaceful spot fringed by reeds and birdsong.
Skirting around the edge of the lake, we joined one of the routes possibly taken by the Scottish army in the build-up to the Battle of Byland. The battle took place in October 1322 when Robert the Bruce’s forces outmanoeuvred the English army by finding a way around their defences and attacking from above. It’s believed they used local tracks and forest cover to climb to the top of the escarpment, flanking the English forces who were camped in a seemingly impregnable position.
Our path took us on a steep but rewarding climb back up the hill, eventually bringing us to the White Horse of Kilburn. This striking chalk figure, carved into the hillside in the 1850s, is one of Yorkshire’s best-known landmarks. During the Second World War it was deliberately camouflaged to prevent enemy bombers using it as a navigational guide.
After a quick breather and a chance to admire the view again, we picked up the Cleveland Way and followed it along the top. Along the way, we passed a memorial to the crew of a Halifax bomber that tragically crashed in the area during WWII – another poignant reminder of how this landscape holds layer upon layer of history.
Eventually, we arrived at a simple stone monument marking the site of the Battle of Byland. It’s a quiet spot today, surrounded by open moorland and bird calls, but in 1322 it would have been a place of chaos, noise, and decision-making that helped shape the political future of England and Scotland.
We finished our walk back at the Sutton Bank National Park Centre, where we celebrated with a well-earned ice cream – the perfect end to a walk filled with stories, scenery, and more than a few hills.
Why not follow the same path?
Staying with us at Cliff House Holiday Cottages puts you within easy reach of Sutton Bank, Gormire Lake, and the beautiful Cleveland Way. If you’re looking for a walk that combines stunning views, peaceful woodland, historical intrigue, and a bit of a leg stretch, this one’s well worth adding to your itinerary. You can see the route that we followed on the OS website.
Whether you’re a history lover, a seasoned walker, or simply in search of a new perspective, walking the Battle of Byland route is a reminder that Yorkshire’s landscapes have always had a story to tell – and sometimes, the best way to hear it is to just put one foot in front of the other.
